The Somerville Flea Showcases Local Vendors and Businesses

As October comes to a close, Davis Square will have to say goodbye to the Somerville Flea for another season. Located on the corner of Holland Street and Buena Vista Road, the Somerville Flea has been open every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. since August. The vibrant market features live music and welcomes customers and vendors of all ages.

The market is home to a variety of businesses and vendors, each with their own tent and tables. One tent offered all light blue and green furniture, as well as plates, mugs and old books. There are also multiple vendors with posters just waiting to be put up on a dorm room wall.

Helene Matteson, owner of Urban Kitchen Handmade Soap, described the market’s environment.

“It’s a mixture of farmers markets, resellers, vintage and artists,” Matteson said. “Everyone is always very supportive.”

Matteson and her soap brand were momentarily on a hiatus from the flea market, but are back for the season and the foreseeable future. Beginning with handmade soap, her business has expanded to a wide variety of products over time.

“I started with making handmade soap. I started making it for myself and people, and I gave samples and people liked it,” Matteson said. “[It] expanded into soy candles, bath and body products such as natural perfume, lip balm and massage and body oil.”

Matteson elaborated on the sense of community among the vendors at the flea market.

“People that have been here for years know each other,” Matteson said. “I know a lot of vendors because we’re set up next to each other and through the markets I’ve done through the years.”

Matteson also noted what she loves the most about being a vendor at the Somerville Flea.

“I think Somerville really supports its artists, and I think Davis Square has a really good community,” Matteson said.

Carolina and her business Recycled Glass have been coming to the Somerville Flea for 11 years, and over time she has seen the market grow.

“We have more vendors now, at the beginning it was just a few. Now it's more vibrant,” Carolina said. “It has always been a good market for me.”

Carolina has gotten to know some of the Somerville Flea mainstays over the years.

“Now, I know many of the vendors … and many, many of the customers,” Carolina said. “We do have many local people that actually go every Sunday. We get a lot of parents and students that come to visit their children’s school.”

Carolina mentioned the spirit and ambiance of the market as one of the reasons she has returned for so many years.

“This is the most, at the same time professional, but good vibe and laid back market,” Carolina said. “I like the diversity … and there’s always something different. You have to check it every week to see what you find.”

Her table displays a collection of glass jewelry including earrings, bracelets, statement pieces and more delicate necklaces. Like Madison, Carolina started making her products — recycled glass jewelry — for herself.

Recycled Glass' booth is pictured at Somerville Flea Market.

“It was my hobby and then people started asking, ‘can you make this, can you make that,’ and it became a business,” Carolina said.

On the theme of upcycling, Alexandra DiMauro started MayFly, an upcycled fashion business that she sells at flea markets in Boston.

“I started upcycling to combat the fast fashion industry and use second-hand material for all of my pieces, so that I could create something new out of old textiles and garments,” DiMauro said.

DiMauro, who has previously been a vendor at the Fenway Flea and the New England Open Market, is new to the Somerville Flea.

“[The Somerville Flea] is particularly nice because there’s really nice people that run it so they are really attentive to the vendors … which isn’t always the case for every market,” DiMauro said.

The market serves as a way for vendors like DiMauro to make new connections and generate publicity for new businesses.

“I definitely have had certain people come to different markets that I’ve been doing to look for my work, which is pretty cool,” DiMauro said.

Kevin Guicho, who is a collector and owner of Wicked Güicho, has been coming to the Somerville Flea for 10 years. Following in the steps of their mother, who has been collecting for 34 years, Guicho has continued this tradition.  

“I never would have seen myself doing this way back when. It actually started with my mother and my aunts,” Guicho said. “They were in Somerville and they came across the flea during the first season.”

When the Somerville Flea first opened, it became the perfect opportunity for Guicho to start their business and put their collection to good use.

Andrew Wiley, another vendor at the Somerville Flea, is the owner of High Energy Vintage, a storefront that sells vintage clothing, belts and shoes.

“I started this vintage business close to 15 years ago as a booth at the Solo Vintage Market in the South End,” Wiley said. “Then I opened up a storefront in Teele Square about 11 years ago.”

Like Carolina, Wiley has gotten to know the community well via the market.

“I know a lot of people that are coming by. I’ve watched kids grow up,” Wiley said. “The flea is definitely a very community-oriented event.”

The Somerville Flea season will come to an end on Monday. The last market will be Halloween themed, with vendors dressed in costume and handing out candy to market-goers. Make sure to mark your calendars with this special edition!

I Took the One Less Traveled By: An Abortion Provider’s Profiled Journey

The beige brick building is nondescript. Every window has its blinds pulled tightly closed, leaving the impression that the interior is barren. There are no signs, other than a bright yellow address — 111 Harvard Street— no trace of protestors, and zero indication that the building is a reproductive health care facility. Upon my arrival at the clinic to meet Dr. Delli-Bovi, the director and founder of Women’s Health Services (WHS), I was, for a moment, nervous that my Uber driver had dropped me off at the wrong place. But, of course, it dawned on me, unlike the ER, abortion clinics don’t have flashy red signs to announce their presence. 

After my identity was verified, I was buzzed into the building with a warm welcome. Dr. Delli-Bovi was straight out of a procedure and still sporting her blue scrubs. Off the bat, her office provides a window into her life. On the wall hangs her diploma from Harvard University, accompanied by a NARAL certificate, family photos, and paintings; there wasn’t one blank spot. A deranged looking Trump stress ball sits on her dark wooden desk between organized stacks of paper. She sits on a brown leather chair, somehow reclining while simultaneously looking poised and alert. Behind her is an extra desk, this one completely covered by documents.

Dr. Delli-Bovi didn't grow up knowing that she was going to be a doctor; it wasn’t remotely on her radar. She was born in Fairfield County, Connecticut, to an artist father. “My dad was an artist and a sculptor, and so he had a tremendous number of friends who tended to be very liberal, if not socialist, or communist, so the ideas I was exposed to early on were pretty progressive.” She described this exposure to her father’s friends and their varying beliefs as an advantage, as her town was otherwise “fairly conservative.” Following in the footsteps of her father, she majored in visual studies at Harvard with the intention of going to architecture School. 

It wasn’t until her senior year of university, when she was writing a thesis on topographical orientation, that Dr. Delli-Bovi discovered she was in the wrong field. She said, “I really wasn’t very into designing buildings, and I thought about what I could do that would be challenging, satisfying, and socially purposeful.” So, Dr. Delli-Bovi found herself in a slight predicament: she wanted to go to medical school but had taken almost no pre-med classes nor had the grades to apply, which made for a very busy senior year. But, after a year and a half in New York, working at New York Hospital and Rockefeller University, she attended Penn State, a relatively new medical school. 

Like the decision to attend medical school, deciding to be an OB-GYN was not an obvious choice for Dr. Delli-Bovi. She had loved her elective in plastic surgery, assisting in reconstructive face and neck surgery for cancer patients and people born with congenital disabilities, and thought she had found her medical calling. But the commitment to plastic surgery was fleeting, and despite not actually enjoying her experience during her OB-GYN rotation, she realized it best reflected the type of doctor she wanted to be: one that included an ongoing relationship with patients, preventive medicine, and education. 

What happened next in Dr. Delli-Bovi’s journey to becoming the abortion provider she is today, seemed to me, for lack of better words, fate. After medical school, she returned to Boston for her OB-GYN residency in 1976 at the Boston Lying-in Hospital, which today is known as Brigham and Women’s Hospital. The Chief of Obstetrics, Dr. Kenneth Ryan believed that abortion should be a part of the training in OB-GYN program. In fact, according to Delli-Bovi, it was the first program in the country that formally incorporated abortion training. 

For context, this was merely three years after Roe v. Wade was decided, making abortions a constitutional right (for at least a little while), and two years after Dr. Kenneth Edelin, who had been a chief resident at Boston City Hospital, was charged for manslaughter after performing a legal abortion in 1973. During this tumultuous time for abortion access, Delli-Bovi said, “Most of the older doctors that I'd worked with at the Lying-in were tremendously supportive of legal abortion because so much of what they'd seen during their training, and the years after, had been the really horrible consequences of illegal, unsafe abortions.” 

Fresh out of residency, when Dr. Delli-Bovi was a junior partner , in a private practice, she was asked by the senior partner if she was comfortable with the office providing abortion care. Delli-Bovi wholeheartedly supported providing abortion in the office and felt it was an option her patients deserved to have access to. Dr. Delli-Bovi had chosen OB-GYN to meet all the health needs of her patients, and that “included the decision not to have a baby,“ she explained. “Most of them [the patients seeking abortions] were women who had had children, which are most women that have abortions. They wanted access to abortion, and they wanted to be discreet about it.” 

Over time she noticed that fewer and fewer doctors were performing abortions in their offices, so abortion options were increasingly limited to hospitals. From talking to Delli-Bovi, it became clear that there were a multitude of reasons why clinics were preferable to hospital abortions, even in Massachusetts — financial efficiency, in-depth abortion-specific training, and having a staff that was supportive and not resistant to the concept of abortion. 

Delli-Bovi worked in reproductive health care for 16 years in various facilities, including the Crittenton Hastings House, the first fully licensed freestanding clinic to offer abortions in Massachusetts and where Dr. Delli-Bovi was the director before WHS. Nearing the end of her second decade in the field, she came to the conclusion that it was time to set off on her own in 1992. She said, “That's when we started Women's Health Services. We started it with the idea of focusing on the people that weren't getting care.”  

Dr. Delli-Bovi explained that patients with health insurance who lived somewhere where abortion services were legal and available were in a generally good spot, but “if you didn’t have health insurance that covered abortion, if you were underinsured because you had a gigantic deductible, if you didn't have insurance at all, or your employer excluded abortion coverage, then you're out of luck,” she said. 

In 2008, when Massachusetts added strict legal requirements for clinics providing abortion care, Massachusetts clinics, like Delli-Bovi’s, faced overwhelming challenges. The laws dictated that private practices using general anesthesia had to become ambulatory surgery centers (ASC). According to the federal requirements to be an ASC, clinics must meet the following, among other criteria: ASCs must have available transportation to a hospital in addition to a written agreement with the local hospital. The clinic needed an elevator, fancy HVAC systems, piped-in oxygen and suction, and specific space requirements. Complying with ASC laws requirements are extraordinarily expensive.

On top of the new expensive requirements for becoming a licensed ASC, the owner of the building where WHS was located tripled their rent, hoping to push the clinic out and sell the space to the Children’s Hospital. It became apparent that to become an ASC, the clinic would have to move. Dr. Delli-Bovi and her husband set off to find an open location, a mission that would end up taking four years and a lawsuit. 

Delli-Bovi searched for a location for two years, and she said, “A lot of times over that two-year period, we would find a place and research who owned the building. We would contact them, and the minute we told them what we wanted to do, they would be absolutely uninterested in dealing with us.” Finally, they were able to get a lease in Brookline, and Dr. Delli-Bovi and her husband put up half the money, about half of $1.5 million, for the ASC renovations. 

“And so, then there was a fight,” Dr. Delli-Bovi said. A group of residents tried to prevent the WHS from opening. They claimed that the work Dr. Delli-Bovi was doing was great, but that their neighborhood was not the place for it. People lived there; there were playgrounds, schools, and churches, for God’s sake! Their legal right to object to the clinic’s location came down to the number of parking spots. The clinic had 24 parking spots, but calculations required them to have 32 spots, despite the fact they see no more than 15 patients a day. 

“Basically, all hell broke loose. I mean, it was a three-ring circus with a grim reaper showing up and all the anti-abortion people,” she said. A group of neighbors protested on the basis that the clinic and the protests that would ensue in the neighborhood would scar children for life. Dr. Delli-Bovi said, “They were against it, not because they were against what we did, but because they felt that it was going to be terrible for the community. So, our attitude was, if you can't do it here, where can you do it? You know?” 

At the time, Dr. Delli-Bovi, mother of two children, had lived in Brookline for 15 years, around the corner from the Planned Parenthood Clinic. She said, “I lived around, originally, the Planned Parenthood clinic…I had little children growing up, we used to walk past it; there would be a scores of protesters, [and] my kids would ask me why they were there. And I would explain it to them.” To Delli-Bovi, the fact that Brookline is a family neighborhood was irrelevant.  

After a two-year legal battle, WHS opened in February of 2010. Maintaining the clinic is expensive. The challenge that WHS faces today is that they are neither a nonprofit, nor profitable. Dr. Delli-Bovi said, “We pay for everything.” The group of people the clinic set out to serve, people who, without affordable options, aren't able to get any care, pay out-of-pocket at a discounted rate. At a hospital, the out-of-pocket rate for a patient is immensely more than the contracted rate hospitals receive from insurance companies. Patients, who may otherwise have to pay between $3,000 to $12,000 or more at a hospital, can have a procedure for $700 to $3,000 at WHS. “There’s just no comparison,” she said. These are patients who either don't have insurance that covers abortion or have high deductibles to meet before their insurance kicks- in. 

The clinic was operating at around a $450,000 deficit per year. “[For] 70% of the people we take care of, we're being reimbursed at a rate that's lower than our cost of care. Which is why in 2019, we ended up almost closing because we were almost a half a million dollars in debt. I was like, we just can't go on this way. It's all on me; I can't take any more risks,” Delli-Bovi explained. 

At this point, the clinic had two options: close or raise a whole lot of money. With virtually nothing to lose, the clinic did what in the realm of abortion-providing is the unthinkable: they actively sought publicity. They got coverage from Boston television stations, the Boston Globe,and Bloomberg News. They started getting donations from all over the country. People mostly gave small amounts of money, but it added- up quickly. Dr. Delli-Bovi said she would sometimes receive notes along with donations, including one from a woman in her 90’s that said, “I've been fighting for this all my life.” 

The Clinic was able to raise enough money to stay open, but the problem remains that the clinic is operating on an immense annual deficit. So, Dr. Delli-Bovi said, “We've been trying to set up a nonprofit, a fundraising arm that is separate from Women's Health Services PC, that would raise money to help support it and to support the mission of continuing to take care of people whose only option other than hospitals is us.” Additionally, “there’s discrimination within the insurance world,” Dr. Delli-Bovi said. Because the Center provides abortions, many insurances refuse to provide services or offer prohibitively high rates for for general liability insurance, property insurance, or worker’s compensation.  

Allen Bromberger, founding partner of Bromberger Law, is recognized for his work in developing nonprofit and for-profit structures and specifically focuses on the intersection of business and philanthropy. When I spoke to him generally about the abortion clinic’s current situation, he explained that “The biggest issue is whether the clinic will operate as a charity rather than a business. This requires giving up ownership, limits on what people can earn, forgoing political action, and dedicating the assets to charity permanently.” 

Qualifying as a nonprofit has two main steps. First is creating the legal entity, which Bromberger describes as easy. The second step, applying and qualifying for the IRS tax exemption, is “complex and takes months to complete. The cost, if you use a lawyer, is $10,000-25,000,” Bromberger said. 

I didn’t quite understand how insurance companies could legally have different policies for abortion clinics versus other businesses. Bromberger said, “It is legal because they have different and special risks that are taken into account when setting rates. It is about risk, not politics. This is regulated by state law.” 

Despite the many challenges — financial, legal,  and personal —  Dr. Delli-Bovi said, “we're lucky because it is Massachusetts. Because there are groups like Reproductive Equity Now and Planned Parenthood that have worked to do the advocacy work, to eliminate some of the antiquated laws around abortion, and to make changes in the laws.” Collectively, these groups, along with the Massachusetts government, had a role in eliminating the Shackling Law (which prohibits the unsafe practice of shackling female prisoners during prenatal care, childbirth, and abortions), and the Roe Act (a Massachusetts Act to remove obstacles and expand abortion access), getting protections for physicians after Dobbs (the Supreme Court decision that overturned Roe v. Wade) passed, and, most recently, orchestrating the stockpiling of Methopristone. 

 

“This State is incredible…this is one of the only departments of public health in the country that has a family planning department. It's amazing. And so I think, in some ways, we're extraordinarily lucky and feel incredibly well supported. And in some ways, the challenges are just always going to be there,” Delli-Bovi said. 

Despite the challenges still present even in states like Massachusetts, where abortion is legal, WHS, with Delli-Bovi at the helm, has been providing safe care to patients for over 30 years. Patients vary “from patients that have resources, to patients that have no resources, to patients that are coming from all over the country to get services that aren't available where they live, or coming from the surrounding New England states [because the services they need are unavailable in those states]. They are single mothers; they are women with substance abuse problems. There are women that are homeless, there are women that have mental health problems. You name it,” Dr. Delli-Bovi said. 

Delli-Bovi’s observations are mirrored across the U.S. According to the New York Times article “Who Gets Abortions in America” and the data they collected in 2021, the typical abortion patient may already be a mother, is in her late twenties, has attended some college, has a low income, is unmarried, is in her first six weeks of pregnancy, is having her first abortion, and lives in a blue state.  

On the day that I met with her, Dr. Delli-Bovi told me she had just met with a patient who had two autistic children. She said, “She was pregnant again, and she just couldn't have, you know, she couldn't have dealt with another child [knowing that another child would be at high risk for autism].” Over her career, she has seen countless patients, each with a different story to tell, each that had to face and make a difficult decision. One of the first patients Dr. Delli-Bovi saw who required care at the hospitable, was a married thirty-two-year-old woman with two existing children. Dr. Delli-Bovi said, “She started coughing up blood, and she got a workup, and she turned out to have metastatic lung cancer. She wasn't a smoker. She had a very poor prognosis, so she was faced with this terrible decision.” 

Dr. Delli-Bovi said that the patient had to ask herself the following questions: “Do I try to continue this pregnancy, even though there's a very good chance that I'm going to die before the end of the pregnancy? Do I want the risk of needing an emergency delivery of a premature infant?” Choosing to continue the pregnancy would most likely lead to a scenario where her husband was left alone to bring up two children and a premature infant, who may very well have all the problems associated with premature babies. 

Another couple came to the clinic to terminate a pregnancy due to devastating fetal abnormalities and were met by a crowd of protestors outside. The protestors venomously hurled the typical anti-abortion slurs at them. On the second day, the husband brought his video camera and began to record the protestors. Dr. Delli-Bovi remembers him describing their situation, how they had wanted this baby, and saying to the protestors, “I want you to understand how cruel you're being…this is such a hard thing to do, and you're making it harder.” 

Dr. Delli-Bovi emphasized that not all patients who choose abortion have abnormal pregnancies that threaten the life of the fetus or themselves, but “the point is that everybody is looking at their entire situation and deciding what is in their best health interests. That's a decision that only they can make. It shouldn't and can't be made for them,” she said. 

Dr. Delli-Bovi is proud of the care she provides, and she never hides it. She said, “It’s always been a question of whether, outside of your work, you discuss the work that you do. And I've always felt that it's really important to do that, no matter how uncomfortable it might be. And I just put it right out there.” 

When Dr. Delli-Bovi is confronted by someone who exclaims, “Well, I don’t agree with what you are doing,” she responds with, “Well, I totally understand that, and that's your right. But if you could see the infinite range of circumstances that lead someone to make this decision, you might feel differently.” When she told a woman at a hospital fundraiser what she did and was met with the response, “I just don't agree with it [abortion], when it's purely elective,” Dr. Delli-Bovi said, “It's never purely elective, nobody gets pregnant, so they can have an abortion.”  

On Delli-Bovi’s second desk, there is a large gold disk on a small pedestal with the engraving from Robert Frost’s poem, “The Road Not Taken.” 

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,

And sorry I could not travel both …

I took the one less traveled by, 

And that has made all the difference.

“Does this quote have any particular meaning to you?” I asked. 

“I love it because it’s kind of like I took the one less traveled by,”  Delli-Bovi said.  

Throughout Delli-Bovi’s life, just like anyone else’s, she has encountered the places in the woods where the road diverges: architecture or med school? Plastic surgery or obstetrics and gynecology? Hospital or clinic? Trudge along in silence or speak out? Each little decision, even the choice she made to accept my interview, has brought her down the path she is on and paved the way for others. And the path is not an easy or safe one. Once on a tollbooth on Mass Pike, there was a message calling Dr. Delli-Bovi a baby killer and giving her home address. The work she does to keep the Clinic open and provide care to patients not only puts herself at risk but also places a risk on her entire family.  

Dr. Delli-Bovi finished, “I thought, wow, to me, that exemplifies my choice to do something that was not the road more traveled by. I just realized over the years that I do this because I was trained to do it, because I care about doing it well. And because over the last 50 years, there are fewer and fewer people that are doing it. I want to teach people. I want to make sure that it goes on, to be able to be provided by the next generation and the generation after that.”

Notes from the New York Underground

I enter from the West 86th Street station on Saturday, Feb. 18. I scan through the turnstile using Apple Pay, thinking about how taking the subway felt much more romantic when the only option was a MetroCard, and I make a mental note to buy one for the way back. On the platform, a girl pulls her boyfriend away from the tracks as the train pulls into the station. I push myself into the car. The downtown bound 1-train is packed.

Usually when I take the subway, I keep my eyes glued to my phone (typically playing the New York Times’ game Spelling Bee), or my head tucked safely behind a book, avoiding all eye contact and conversation. I customarily remind myself that it’s vital to keep aware of my surroundings while seeming engrossed in something else. I try to build a world that's impenetrable. Exposure feels unsafe. I never take the first train car, that’s usually pretty empty. There’s nowhere else to run if there's a problem. The first car is a trap. Those are the types of things ingrained in New York teenage girls.

Two people are reading books, a two-year-old is on an iPad with the music blasting out loud — her mother’s on the phone and a man in a brown fur coat and a black and white patterned silk bandana with wire headphones and gold framed sunglasses covering his eyes nonchalantly leans against the doors.

“Stay clear of the closing doors.”

One of the people reading, a girl, talks to her friend, or possibly her sister, about her book. “Her parents are mathematicians … they be flirting with math,” she says. She shows the photographs in the book to her companion as she describes the different characters and their names. A child next to them looks on, and the three look at the book together.

There’s an ad for “Degrees Without Debt,” a “Rolling Bike Party,” “Tap Your Free Fares Away” and “Thierry Mugler at the Brooklyn Museum.”

I leave the 1-train to switch to the D-train at 59th Street.

On the platform, there is a woman selling candy bars: Twix, Milky Ways and Snickers. Her daughter runs around her in circles and swings on the stair railing. Her sparkly pink backpack bounces up and down with her movements.

There’s a man playing the accordion with a brown cowboy hat on. At first, he is encircled by a crowd. When a C-train arrives, the crowd disperses, and only one listener places money (a few dollars) in his trunk.

By the track, there is a woman in bright pink pants and beige stilettos talking to a French family who is visiting. She says, “Je m’appelle Rachel.” These are the only words she offers up in French. She gives the family directions and goes on to tell them she’s an actor. Taking their phone, she types in her TikTok handle. “I’m kind of big on TikTok,” Rachel tells them. The family takes a picture with her.

She has a white headband on, with curly hair poking out of a high bun, like a bunny’s tail sitting on her head. Her tote bag says, “The greatest thing you’ll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return — Moulin Rouge.”

I decide she feels approachable. I tell her I’m a college student writing an article about the subway. She looks down at me from her high-heeled perch with a look of warmth and a hint of condescension.

“Why are you taking the subway today, and where are you from?” I ask.

She tells me she’s from Chicago and in town to see plays; she has already seen “Hadestown” and “Moulin Rouge” (hence the merch) this week and been to a few auditions. She tells me excitedly she had an audition this morning that went really well. She’s taking the subway today to get to the Wolf play at the MCC theater.

I thank her for her time. She is the only person I talk to on my trip to the underground. She is the only one who I felt was approachable. I find it ironic that she is not even from New York.

“A downtown D-train is approaching the platform.”

The D-train smells overwhelmingly like weed and is just as crowded as the 1-train. There’s an entire family of five fast asleep. The baby is asleep in her stroller, with a beaded bracelet over her coat sleeve.

Three girls board the train speaking Japanese. Their enthusiastic conversation is interrupted with English phrases like, “you never know.” One has blue hair.

“Excuse me, stroller coming through.”

A man dressed in all blue — blue vintage cap, puffy blue coat, black sunglasses and Balenciaga sneakers — holds a sleeping child. Impressively, he begins speaking in Japanese to the girl with blue hair. “I travel a lot,” he explains.

I try to sneak a photo of the blue man and the child, but something about taking their picture makes me feel guilty.

There’s a lot of love on the subway. We whizz by a couple kissing on the tracks, and I’ve seen a dozen parents holding their children tight. Between the love there are also many blank stares and eyes glued to screens. At moments, it feels like the underground world could exist outside of time — with people in all sorts of clothing and styles, from all over the world, speaking different languages. Alas, the portable phones bring us back to the present.

And in some cases, there is a little too much ‘love.’ “Adore me, kiss me, surprise me, tease me,” half-naked women with candy covering their nipples exclaim from a lingerie ad plastered on the train wall. After doing some research into the Adore Me lingerie brand I learned that this Valentine’s Day promotion is not their first advertisement faux pas. In 2019, Adore Me released an MLK Day sale with the slogan, “We have a dream … about new lingerie!” Needless to say, people found the ad to be incredibly offensive and some suggested boycotting the brand. According to the article, none of their board members were people of color or women.

Later, on a less populated train, on my way back uptown, I’m tired and keeping my attention on my surroundings is getting harder. A girl in all red with her nails each painted a different color bobs her head to her music while pursing her lips. When she realizes she’s dancing, she stops.

A man yells across the car, “This train is not going uptown!” My heart drops for a moment, Shoot, have I been going the wrong direction this whole time? I think to myself. “My phone says it’s Motown!” the same man exclaims and presses play on his phone. It was all a joke. My nerves settle. He begins to sing “My Girl” and he’s pretty good. The music moves more clearly into my line of vision, and I realize there are two men singing. They hold out hats for money. A man in the back swings to the music, though his face remains serious. A woman sings along at the end.

The train gets crowded again at 34th Street.

“Stay clear of the closing doors.”

A woman on the verge of tears walks through the aisle asking for change. She says, “I’m suffering, and I have no one in my corner.” Most people, who are not already fixated on their phone screens, bring their gaze to the speckled floor. One girl gives her a quarter; the woman is very grateful.

The couple next to me holds hands and talks in Spanish. He stands, and she looks up at him. He kisses her on the head and gets off at the next stop while she stays sitting.

I’m tired and I don’t want to be on the subway anymore. Thirty blocks to go.

A man says, “Oh, I hate the subway.”

Yeah, me too, I think. But only sometimes. I hate that it can be dirty, smelly, delayed and claustrophobically crowded. I hate when someone walks by asking for money, and I feel conflicted about what I can do. And I hate that the city hasn’t done an effective job either.

Even so, I love that I can travel from my quiet apartment to the bustling Lower East Side in under an hour for $2.75. I love that a microcosm of the city exists just a few feet below all the skyscrapers, and while there is a lot of loneliness and hardship, there is also a lot of love. In the words of Dostoevsky’s actual Underground Man, “To love is to suffer and there can be no love otherwise.”

Your Daily Reminder to Drink Water! A Trip to the Utah National Parks


Lying face up on a cot in the one room Zion Canyon Medical Clinic in rural Utah, feverish and apparently severely dehydrated, I contemplated how my travels had led me to this point. My vision was going in and out and it was becoming harder to see the petite older woman, who was the only available doctor closer than an hour from Zion National Park. 36 hours prior to this humbling moment, I had been hiking and canyoneering off cliffs. In the blackness, I thought about the views I’d seen and what I’d learned. Yeah, I thought, this moment here on this cot on what, not to be dramatic, feels like the brink of death, is worth it. 

The Kanab ER. Ava Schoenberg/freelance family photographer

After a quick fainting spell, the doctor called the ER in Kanab, a small town an hour away, to expect a very dehydrated young lady who can’t seem to stand for a duration longer than two minutes without collapsing. “We see stuff like this all the time, don’t worry sweetie. We just can’t perform the necessary blood tests you need at this clinic,” the clinician said. Calling the ER is not typical in non-emergent cases, but in small towns clinics seem to have a level of hospitality and personal touch that I have never found in my hometown of New York City.

The Zion National Park is its own ecosystem, supporting at least 800 species of plants. All of its life — the cacti, water falls, ferns, foxes, wild  flowers, trees, avalanches, deer — exist because of the Virgin River’s power. The river can be seen from the highway and then in full force in the park. In March the river can be at its deepest and coldest as a result of melting snow. Looking down at the river from the trails, I was in awe that something that seemed so harmless and minuscule in comparison to the towering rock mountains was the cause of mass erosion and life-threatening flash floods. Without the river, there is no Zion. 

The Virgin River, Zion National Park. Ava Schoenberg/freelance family photographer 

Maybe it’s always been this way, but in 2023, amidst an industrial and urbanized world on the verge of climatic destruction, stepping onto the grounds of a National Park like Zion and Bryce feels like landing on Mars or paying homage to some sort of Holy Ground. The mountains are a striking orangey-red with streaks of different shades and browns as if someone had painted them. When it rains, little waterfalls come peeking out of nooks and crannies, often creating small pools. You can smell the fresh water, and the air feels cool and damp — a warning to travelers that the climate in the early Spring is a catalyst for Raynaud’s Syndrome. Nature makes itself known; it towers over the hikers, threatening flash floods and avalanches if one isn’t careful. The rushing river and monstrous mountains remind visitors that they are on nature’s turf and are no match for mother earth's whims. It only took two days in high altitude for me to fall. 

As we begin our exit from Zion and approach the tippity top of a mountain, a roadway winds its way towards the apex, and the scenery dramatically changes. At the tippity top of the mountain, where most of the trail heads on this route can be accessed with a car, the scenery dramatically changes. When visiting in mid-March, the pitch black Zion Mount Carmel tunnel brings you from Spring to Winter in under five minutes. Rocks that were at first strikingly red are now covered in snow. There are no cacti anymore, instead pine trees. The terrain resembles stacks of pancakes with a hearty sprinkling of powdered sugar. This was my view on the way to the emergency room; life could be much worse. 

Top of mountain, Zion National Park. Ava Schoenberg/freelance family photographer 

The Kanab Emergency Room was quiet and clean. After checking out my medical situation the doctor said something along the lines of, “Push yourself as much as you would like. Sometimes you end up in a dire situation, and sometimes you don’t. I would hate it if you missed the helicopter ride and Bryce trails.” Never in my life had a doctor advised me to take such risks. Yet, this adventurous mentality was consistent with the majority of locals I met. Our canyoneering tour guide, Matt, seemed to see the world as his playground while treating it with his utmost respect. His typical day consisted of propelling off mountains, fixing the well, and spending the evening with his girlfriend in the hot tub he built from an old giant metal trough. The clinician’s husband lived in Park City because he liked the adrenaline of treating ski injuries. The universe of activities and the risk nature provided was, for all them- the ER doctor, the clinician, and Matt, - simultaneously their work and home.  

Lying now in the emergency room hospital bed, an IV providing me much-needed nutrients, I considered again: would I do this all over? My answer was still, “yes, without a doubt, though next time I’ll drink a couple more sips of water.” We travel to broaden our experiences, to see new things, and in the case of national parks and American Western deserts, to be a part of virtually untouched nature. Any challenges along the way are just part of the journey. 

A few Takeaways and Tips

1.According to Utah medical professionals, against all intuition and general logic, you CANNOT drink water when severely dehydrated. So don’t get dehydrated unless you're a major Gatorade fan and IV junkie. 

2. In Bryce, take a moment to lie in the snow and look at the spectacular view of Hoodoos. Who cares what other hikers think, trust me, you’ll be so hot the cold snow will be a very welcomed cushion. 

    • Recommended attire: Snow pants 

    • Extra activity: roll a snowball down the side of the mountain and watch it run down the incredibly steep drop and get bigger and bigger until you can no longer see it…

Hoodoos, Bryce National Park. Ava Schoenberg/freelance family photographer 

3. If going in the Spring, buy a poncho before they sell out. 

4.If possible, go to the National Parks, or really anything having to do with nature travel (coral reefs, etc.), now because at this rate who knows how long they will be around. 

  • Protect the Earth. 





References: 

Cuthbert, Lori, and Joe Yogerst. “Everything to Know about Zion National Park.” Travel, National Geographic, 10 May 2022, https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/national-parks/article/zion-national-park. 

“The Narrows.” National Parks Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, https://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/thenarrows.htm

The American Dream Infused with Lobster Cream: A Culinary Oasis in the Desert

This March, my family headed West for a long overdue exploration of our country. The trip included three different national parks, two in Utah, and one in Arizona. Nowhere we stayed would be, by any means, considered a national food capital. As we drove my mom incessantly urged, “eat some of the snacks I brought. We are in a food desert.” Each small town, and when I say small I mean anywhere from ten to three blocks where Main Street is hard to distinguish from any other stretch of highway, was equipped with at least three fast food restaurants. I had never seen more Wendy’s in my life. So this is that stereotype of America — fast food in the desert, I thought. For all that, a ten minute walk from Zion, one of Utah’s most extensive national parks and our first stop, sits the Flanigan Inn and their American bistro-style restaurant, the Spotted Dog. 

Like the name might suggest, there is nothing fancy or over the top about the Spotted Dog. Hikers can walk in with their boots and jeans without shame along with tourists wanting to sport their dresses and button-downs. When you walk in there is a pitcher of fruit-infused water and Elton John and Ed Sheeren playing from hidden speakers, which reflects the restaurant's acute attention to detail in a down-to-earth and homey manner. The interior has minimal but tasteful decoration. Tables without tablecloths leave the black granite material exposed and paintings of the park by local artists hang from the otherwise plain walls. Anything more would distract from the mesmerizing view of Zion’s amber mountains that guests can gape at through the windows that line the wall of the restaurant. 

We were promptly seated and introduced to an overwhelmingly hospitable and sweet server, Maureen, who continually checked in on us throughout the evening. The red rocky mountain trout filet, shrimp linguine, and pesto pasta, “are all wonderful choices,” she told us. All dishes at the Spotted Dog are made with fresh ingredients, hormone-free meats, and sustainably harvested fish. The present day chef, Robert Tita, changes the menu according to the season, so the food is always fresh and for the most part, regionally purchased. The Spotted Dog proudly displays a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence from 2022. Maureen explained that while the restaurant boasts about their wine selection, it is one of the only parts of the menu that isn't locally sourced.  

The menu selections were surprisingly sophisticated compared to the modest ambiance. Unfortunately, the brie cheese with orange and cherry chutney, apples, and toasted baguette seemed to have all the ingredients for success but was slightly disappointing. The cheese was not quite gooey enough to spread onto the bread, so what should have been a warm melty bite was chilled and lacked strong flavor.  Luckily, the hummus plate reflected the restaurant's commitment to farm-to-table ingredients and was very flavorful. The hummus was homemade and bursting with a zesty lemony flavor and the accompanying crudités of cucumbers, radish, and peppers were crisp and fresh. The warmly toasted pita added a delectable crunch to each bite.  

Moving on to the entrées, the Rocky Mountain trout filet encrusted with pumpkin seeds was bursting with saltiness and crispness which was complimented by the sweet flavor from the added rice and pomegranate seeds. The plate was balanced and deserving of a highlight title; Maureen, as we would find again, was right. The only detractor from the dish was the squash puree which was sweeter than was needed. The shrimp pasta was absolutely delicious. Soaked in lobster velouté, a creamy white sauce thickened with lobster, and topped with fresh tomatoes, each bite was fresh, but delightfully creamy, ringing true to the restaurant's Italian roots. 

No meal in the American west is complete without dessert, so we ordered the gluten-free chocolate lava cake and créme brulée. The cake, though in high concentration of chocolate, was deliciously rich even though it was lacking the lava. No warm chocolate oozed from the center, despite the promise in the name. The créme brûlée however neared perfection with a strong vanilla bean taste and pristine glassy top of crystalized sugar. We also were all given our own pots of mint tea, a generous touch. 


What is American culture and typical American food? Does it even exist? I would argue that there most definitely isn’t one “culture’ or cuisine that defines the United States. Stereotypically, of course, there’s fast food and McDonalds, the work-all-day-to-live gritty mentality, and a sprinkling of greed, but this does not define most Americans, or their culinary preferences. Yet, the story behind the Spotted Dog and Flanigan Inn reflects two important aspects of American history: movement west and immigration. 

Lena Dratter immigrated from Italy and established the “Zion Rest Motel” (which would later become the Flanigin Resort and Spa) with her husband, John, in the post first world war era. She opened her own kitchen that stayed close to her Italian roots while her husband worked in the mines. Even though decades have passed, and the inn and its restaurant have passed over into other hands, the inn and the restaurant remain family owned and Dratter’s spirit is still felt in the Italian-American cuisine at the Spotted Dog.  The simplicity of the plates and the decor echo the couple's humble beginnings. It makes it even better that the food is lip-smacking good.